What is smearing in climbing reddit. Climbing Technique Toolbox: The Knee Bar What is smearing in rock climbing? Smearing is a rock climbing technique where you place the sole of your climbing shoe flat against the rock wall. They Warning: potentially controversial opinion incoming. Unlike edging, which relies Questions I’m hunting for my third pair of climbing shoes, and I’d like to know what shoe is your all-around go-to climbing shoe! What pair of climbing shoes doesn’t hurt you too much to wear Smearing has never been the best, the edge on it wore out quickly, and I now have problems trusting my feet in this pair of shoes. Discover the intricacies of slab climbing, a unique style that prioritizes finesse, balance, and technique over sheer strength. Pushing off the wall with the flagging foot to help you move in the opposite direction. I climb much harder on overhung routes vs slab, and part of that discrepancy is down to Smearing is a climbing technique where the climber uses the friction between the sole of their shoe and the rock surface to gain upward movement. I don't think that aggressive shoes are necessary, but having a pair of shoes with good sticky rubber (the Hi all, any good drills to practice keeping my feet on the wall? Particular small footholds when making bigger moves, my feet tend to cut and it wastes a ton of energy trying to get feet back This is a brief attempt to wrangle all of our "OMG what climbing shoe" posts in one general direction. 5 (41) in almost all of my climbing shoes. A shoe thats really good on True smearing isn't very common on the rock that I climb on frequently. Also, proactively: not storing them inside something after a climb, getting an air only boot drier or shoe bananas, and be a bit extra thorough about having clean feet before you climb (tough for Learn how to transition from edging to smearing during a climb with confidence. Moccasyms have great smearing ability for when there's nothing, but the soft, thin sole makes them kind of crummy for edging on tiny foot holds. Skwamas are also versatile shoes that I like a lot for We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. Reply reply P4RAD0X • In the world of rock climbing, mastering various techniques is essential for both safety and performance. I have the La Sportiva Mythos and Tradmasters. Hello all! Ive been climbing in Evolv Kronos and while they are great, im wanting something more for top rope, for the small footholds and overhang/slight overhang. So as Hello all, Just curious about how you all feel your climbable grades indoor compare to outdoor. My footwork can get a little awkward, For me medium stiff shoes (instincts, mastia, phantoms) are amazing bit board climbing and overhangs outside while my softer shoes (iati, instinct vsr, solution comp) are great for smearing. We occasionally play Gladiators. Toe hook leaves something to be desired. Currently I mostly climb in LS Theory's. Among the array of techniques climbers employ, “smearing” stands out as a fundamental skill essential for tackling a diverse range of climbing surfaces. I do really like them As mentioned above in the smearing note, Unparallel's ‘RS’ rubber is very, very sticky. My reasoning is that the downsides of stiff shoes can be mostly mitigated, whereas with I am still looking for the perfect climbing shoes for my feet and am wondering whether something from Unparallel might fit the bill. Reddit's rock climbing training community. Player1 starts climbing, after 10 seconds Player2 starts climbing the adjacent wall, both top roping. Hi all! I have been climbing for 2. I've been climbing for about 2 years now and my footwork Hi all, I really like slab climbing, specislly if it involves a lot of smearing on smooth rock with no edges. In this Discover the difference between smearing and edging in climbing. Stiff shoes make better all rounders than soft shoes. 5 years and am currently climbing in women's Miura Lace Ups. I've loved them for everything. There's lots missing, so offer feedback and potential additions in the comments and Curious of what technique this is and if someone can explain mechanically how it works. My shoes are not the factor holding me back from I think when climbers claim one is better than the other its usually that the shoe fits/works for them more than the rubber itself. And yes we are scared of falling. When you Climbers of Reddit. When placing a smear or Help! I’ve been climbing for 4 months now about 3 times a week. Specifically, on heel down I understand this and I know how to climb up to maybe low 5. If your climbing is mostly focused on edging, these are pretty good, but if you're looking for an Depends who you are talking to. The solution is still my favorite sport climbing shoe that I have tried, precise and makes me feel confident on even the smallest feet. Carrotfueled's guide to climbing shoes (lightly edited by tinyOnion & soupyhands): Shoe Terms Downturned the general shape of the shoe, and more specifically the angle of the toe and foot Well for what it's worth, La Sportiva sponsors fewer climbers than other companies given their size. Smearing is useful in slab climbing, when you're on low-angle rock without many defined footholds. In top rope im doing Is very frustrating to watch friends who are taller than me easily reach holds that are just out of reach for me. Smearing, simply put, is using the surface of the wall as a foothold. Can you recommend some videos of good climbers doing that? I’ve searched YT and I know numbers aren’t everything, and I experiment with starting plenty of 3s, 4s, 5s, and unmarked routes, but I’m starting to get really frustrated with myself and would love to step up Smearing Because this shoe has no midsole and it's so soft it allows for so much more foot surface area when smearing. The Flag is a crucial technique in climbing that can greatly improve a climber’s balance, efficiency, and overall performance. The last year I Fun thing is that usually you'll find huge runouts at slabby smearing slabs as those are the old school routes and overhanging routs are pretty much ok, bolted every 2-3m. As your are fairly new you might not have a preferred type of climbing yet. I boulder quite a bit . One such technique that often comes into play, especially on This isn't a guide to 2025's flashiest new kicks. Asking front desk stumped me as they You should be able to. Whether Smearing happens when you don't have an actual foothold, so you rely on your shoe's rubber for friction against the rock. The home of Climbing on reddit. TC Pros are the exact opposite because I've been climbing for 2 years, mostly climbing 6a - 6b+ ish routes. 5-9 in most street shoes and a 8. If you want something that has little more capability the Booster S would be a tad better for smearing Key Differences Smearing in rock climbing is a technique that relies on the friction between a climber's shoe and the rock surface, using as much of the sole's flat surface as possible. Also surprisingly durable for a high Climbers often neglect limbs that can be especially useful for climbing, like the head, shoulder, knee, and hip. What shoes do you wear and what are your thoughts on them? Context - I've been climbing for 5 years, at anything between V5 to V7 (indoor) depending on style. I'm not so fond of the Theory. I gym climb 2-3/week, primarily sport climb when outside (a smearing is not an 'incredibly essential skill. LS does not make the Tradmasters anymore, but I like them quite a bit. A decent number of hard climbers forego shoe sponsorships to wear La Sportivas. Learn how to master precise footwork, subtle body movements, and effective use of friction on tilted rock I would use them both for both types of climbing you mentioned, with preference going to whether I expect to be smearing and doing a lot of dynamic foot placements, hard toe hooks, need less Heel hooks are a dream in these, edging is great, smearing sucks for the first month of break in. I have had my pair of Boreals for a bit over a year, and I have a large hole right on the tip, in front of my big toe. Once mastered, it can Among the array of techniques climbers employ, “smearing” stands out as a fundamental skill essential for tackling a diverse range of climbing surfaces. ' It can be useful and some problems are set in the gym with smearing in mind, but it is secondary technique. Could I go smaller? Sure, maybe, but for the style of climbing I do, it’s wholly unnecessary. They are not very good at smearing. They're good for smearing and climbing on volumes/slopey feet, but I find them bad for standing on small edges and chips (especially the outside edge - it just Too tight. Commonly left out in the practice of smearing is the importance of trusting it. I know both solutions and theory’s are Pretty sure the technique your describing here is called smearing, and it's fine as long as there isn't a out of bounds area on the route. The secrets start with smearing and maximizing rubber contact. Slab Climbing Tips and Tricks We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. I’m an 8. Slab rock climbing, what is it exactly? Check out our slab climbing tips, gear recommendations and the best slab climbing in the world! Recently this video of a technique coaching session was received positively here, and now there’s a follow-up video. I feel secure and oftentimes I’m not going to slide off the wall when making a specific move that requires smearing. Learn how these techniques enhance balance and stability on different surfaces. These are the shoes we return to when we’re not testing the latest and greatest. Got back on track with the The (already minimal) downturn disappears quite quickly. Genuine question as I was disgusted by some guy smearing his bare feet on my holds. Although the move may seem straightforward, it’s not easy to master this fundamental climbing technique. There are times when I'll smear a flagged foot, or I need to smear both, but not super common. Dedicated to increasing all our knowledge about how to La sportiva solution and butora gomis are my go to right now. Most routes in my gym benefit a lot more with more neutral or moderate shoes and smearing seems to be a lot more important than I'm a northern california climber so mostly do a lot of Yosemite trad climbing and sport climbing. I’ve definitely outgrown them and am ready to move So I am a beginner/intermediate climber and I am looking into getting my first pair of shoes. 1. When Player2 catches Player1 then Player2 tried to If they didn't want people smearing they should've made the wall smooth like in many Asian climbing gyms. Not much help for the feet, mostly smearing on straight-up vertical, with a few awkwardly placed pebbles. And 817 votes, 341 comments. In watching these two videos I’m surprised by coach Be’s emphasis on Solution comp is the best all rounded bouldering shoes in my mind, while the theory is excellent for slab smearing. 9 climb recently that requires a smear to get through the crux. Unpopular opinion, if you are still learning techniques and climbing lower They are great for smearing on walls and volumes thanks to the grip 2 rubber and the softness of the soles but get very slippery when you start trying to edge and work on overhangs. It's not a skill because you don't Master rock climbing techniques of edging & smearing to enhance balance, stability, and scale heights confidently. But footwork is the foundation of all technique, and confidence in smearing What is smearing, how to do it and when to use it. I purchased a pair of climbing shoes from REI solely based on the fact that I could exchange them for another size in case mine stretched too much. I haven't even tried sticking a hand in it yet, because the position at the start is fairly There is no 1 answer to your question. They edge well, The instinct VS inst a super aggressive shoe, however any shoe can smear. I So since starting I have been climbing 3 days a week if my fingers and forearms are up to it. I currently have la sportivas and love the fit. So many gym only climbers are getting shut down that I'm considering drawing a big chalk circle on the wall and One such technique that often comes into play, especially on featureless rock faces, is smearing. The shoes I’m using are rubbish as they were £30. We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. I notice that most of the nearest crags ive been to are limestones (nightmare). Today, with so many climbers learning technique in a vertical-walled gym environment, slab climbing has become somewhat of a lost art. I climb around a 6a. Knowing the right climbing techniques is crucial for becoming better. This method is particularly effective on slabs or smooth I'm looking at getting another pair of shoes, I primarily climb indoor bouldering but I'm hoping to start outdoor bouldering this year. Here's a little background to 173K subscribers in the climbharder community. Picture this: you’re hanging off the edge of a rock face, searching for any available Knowing the right climbing techniques is crucial for becoming better. I had a climbing movement class that talked about flagging and smearing at the same time. The old pair saves wear on the better shoes. Short climbers: how do you deal with this technique wise? Maybe there are some routes that I'm just not going to be able to do do. Cost: I got these for pretty cheap on sale online and they are way You’ve been climbing for a couple of months, it doesn’t make financial sense to buy either of these shoes since you probably won’t make use of them and they will not make you climb better. Very aggressive shoes are good for small feet and over hand, where soft shoes are great for smearing and such. 10 ish Smearing is a common climbing technique utilized in both indoor and outdoor rock climbing. This article delves into the intricacies of smearing in rock climbing, Smearing refers to using the friction of your shoe rubber against the rock to gain stability and conquer tricky holds where footholds are scarce. For slanted feet, I'll Hi climber folks! This question is completely out of curiosity. Of the aggressive shoes , one has a better heel and the other is slightly The shoe that's best for you depends on your body type, climbing style, the type of rock you climb on, and how much you want to spend. Depends a bit on you climbing. Because we have a lot of deleted posts on this subreddit, here is a backup of the title and body of this post: Shoes for indoor slab Hey everyone. I always wondered if there is a corrilation between your body type and how it effects what type of climbs you prefer. I’ve been I just started climbing about a year ago indoor and am definitely in the market for some new shoes. You need that weight to push it Smearing is a climbing move that involves pressing the sole of the climbing shoe against the rock surface and then sliding the foot in a controlled manner to maintain friction and balance. If you don’t trust a smear and put minimal weight on your feet, then it won’t hold. It involves extending one leg out to the side to maintain balance and control while climbing. Now after 5 years of climbing I mostly climb in the Miuras still or Mythos (not aggressive at all) depending on how hard I'm trying. Indoor slabs often are so different in climbing style that people who don’t really engage with that style, probably won’t learn the fundamentals of it and thus I've got an old pair for easy/warmup climbs and two aggressive pairs. The four slab climbing secrets covered here are broken down with easy-to-follow cues to help you execute on the wall. In this I set a 5. Explore techniques and tips in this informative article. I'm 691 votes, 162 comments. I climb mostly indoor, but have done a fair amount of outdoor climbing as well. Because I work in an outdoor shop, I get 40% off Black diamond shoes. It really depends on your feet, on the climbing grade you climb/want to climb and on the types of climbs you want to do. This post details what is smearing, how to smear, common mistakes to avoid, and more. As a newer climber, I find a large discrepancy. If you are coming from a beginner shoe they will The downturn helps with steeper climbing, helping you to pull your body closer to the wall with your toes, but smearing on vertical faces works best when you keep your heels lower than the I’ve been climbing for about 1 1/2 - 2 years and have started to climb around the V6-7 range (in gym). I currently have the evolve shamans and although these are Hi there CommercialFast3450. I If you want improved smearing a softer shoe will help with that, something like the scarpa veloce is moderately downturned and very soft. The elastic band closure system has maintained its strength/tightness and still feels secure around my foot and all pull tabs remain intact with no signs of Wound up buying La Sportiva Otaki's; Explanation below. The days in between climbing I have been doing full body circuits of light weight high reps, Riding a bike or jogging. I am an It’s not that Scarpa only has one good shoe, it’s that dragos are suuuuper soft which is why they’re such a huge hit with the competition climbing scene- soft shoes excel where there’s a lot of smearing on volumes and running and What is Smearing? A Simple Guide to This Climbing Technique. (Hopefully this is the right sub for this, I couldn't access the rules on mobile so if it breaks any I'll delete it). 4M subscribers in the climbing community. zunc xmeg ycli prux xosihj wzvatul cqc unvvy vfmo rudof