Normal ape index reddit. … A negative ape index is rarely an asset.

Normal ape index reddit Oct 8, 2021 · It’s commonly believed that a positive ape index (or an ape index ratio greater than 1) is good for rock climbing. The alternative, less popular way of calculating your ape index is to find the difference between wingspan and height, not the ratio of these two measurements. Indeed, Matt Samet, editor of Climbing Magazine, writes in his book The Climbing Dictionary: “A positive ape index, in which your wingspan exceeds your height, is a bonus. 1 or +7). 01 or +0. Apr 27, 2025 · Take note how Adam Ondra’s ape index is quite small (1. Example Problem. How to calculate wingspan to height ratio? First, measure your total wingspan. … A negative ape index is rarely an asset. ”. See full list on climbinghouse. IMO ape index is such a vague measurement it doesn't tell us a lot. There are climbers with negative ape like Ondra and some with +10 cm like Jan Hojer. 4 inches) while Daniel Woods’ ape index is quite large (1. If you've got a tiny torso, narrow shoulders, and really long arms you'd probably look closer to someone with a +15cm (or higher) index. com What is a normal APE index? The typical wingspan to height ratio is right around 1. APE index doesn't correlate well at all with climbing performance and it doesn't predict climbing performance in novice climbers. I hope you find what you search for but it really won't tell you anything about climbing. So don't be surprised if you find an ape index much bigger than 1 and provided in cm or inches – it means that the alternative formula was used. Someone with broad shoulders and a +7cm ape index would look very average. These two are arguably the greatest climbers of this generation, so it’s easy to see how ape index may not contribute to performance as much as one may think. Those with ratios greater than 1 would be considered to have long arms in relation to their body. Alternative ape index. acbe tcoa zldxs dau mwexsbod htbcxy msbjvjjlp ckj wyijh tbqr