Offset nuts vs regular vs dmm.

Offset nuts vs regular vs dmm Nuts “Nuts” or stoppers fit in many thin placements where even the smallest cams are too big, and they're quite a bit less expensive than an active camming device. Use in conjunction with Wallnuts for comprehensive all-season crack protection. Is this something I'm doing wrong while placing them or are they too bomber for their own good? So, the much awaited DMM Alloy Offsets, good, but in their current form far from perfect (see STOP PRESS at the end of this review). A set of offset nuts is a great addition to your rack, especially if you climb on granite a lot. Hoping that someone can help make my mind up. While many people might find Rocks' larger sizes useful, most will let them sit at home more often than not. Edit: to add this. ) and have a bit of a gap between sizes (I infill this gap with a Has anyone had a chance to try out the new BD Offset Stoppers? How do they compare to the DMM ones. Apparently a lot of placements are a little bit Rock shaped due to that being the most commonly used nut (perhaps more so in the past than now), which may affect your choice, but DMM Nuts=Stoppers Have a full set. Or is the sizing different for whatever reason? Apr 26, 2017 · In general I find it somewhat lamentable DMM didn't just keep making them exactly as they were as I don't find the DMM changes to be improvements of any kind over the originals. Apr 4, 2025 · Micro Cams vs. Halfnuts have similar features to Superlight Rocks and are available in 7 sizes. However, for thinly Jan 6, 2020 · Cams just don't tend to fit as well in smaller pin scars and flares, and thus a nut is required. The DMM Alloy Offset Nuts are made with a carefully considered head geometry so that they fit securely into placements where cams or regular nuts would be unstable, flared cracks and peg scars are good examples. Double up 2-7. For unknown long climbs . 3-. I don’t think they are totally necessary, especially if you buy a full rack of the DMM Wallnuts. It was a nut, on sale, in the only climbing shop I knew at the time, so I bought it. Rocks aren't made in as small sizes as other nut sets, but Wild Country does offer Mini Rocks, excellent small aluminum nuts. Apparently a lot of placements are a little bit Rock shaped due to that being the most commonly used nut (perhaps more so in the past than now), which may affect your choice, but DMM Oct 19, 2021 · OFFSET NUTS. Offset nuts aren’t as popular as ‘regular’ nuts and won’t fit in as many placements. I think it should be their next thing to do. Getting the DMM Wallnuts and Offset Nuts gives you all the passive protection you’ll need to start practicing traditional climbing and lets you find out what you should get next. These nuts will last a long time. Use in conjunction with Wallnuts for comprehensive all-season Feb 2, 2018 · Subscribe to our channel for the latest training videos, climbing tutorials and more! On aid climbs and big walls, offset nuts are an indispensable tool that DMM Brass Offsets have long been recognized as the go-to choice for thin, hard-to-protect trad routes and clean aid lines. Use in conjunction with Wallnuts for compre Start with a set of dmm offset nuts and a nut tool to clean. Though that’s only while they’re new, so go climbing & get them scratched up! Aug 13, 2022 · Offset nuts were originally manufactured by "HB" until they went out of business ~2005. It is mostly DMM because that’s what we mainly sell at my job and I can get a good deal on all of it. DMM Halfnuts. The offsets fit in such a huge variety of placements, it’s extremely rare that I find a placement for a standard nut that won’t take a DMM offset. Apr 28, 2019 · For offset vs regular they just said they like having both for variety. Alloy Offsets protect irregular and flared cracks that regular nuts cannot. Added benefit of the BD is that I'm familiar with the color scheme already which makes it easy to find the next bigger or smaller nut if one doesn't quite fit. A little history first: I bought my first HB Offset in I think 1991 – mainly because I didn't know any better. Then get doubles everything from . They are weaker than brassies but a different shape. Every size of Alloy Offset has a robust 12kN strength rating. My rack stands alone as a majority the time my partner doesn't have a rack or doesn't have small enough gear like micro nuts. DMM nuts can also be harder to clean for this reason. Irregular is better. 1x DMM Halfnut Set 1-11 Slings. 5 and a single 3. Jan 5, 2018 · I don't think you need regular and offset nuts. com I carry both, dmm standards (minus the largest 3) and dmm offsets on two ovals for small and large. 3 Items Sort By Most Popular Product Name Price Newest first Set Descending Direction Dec 13, 2009 · They are a more difficult to clean than most of the nuts we tested. Sep 21, 2022 · The same applies to the original WC half nut and the dmm halfnut. Unfortunately, although perfectly functional, these are a semi-skimmed version of the DMM HB Alloy Offset. I have a set of small dmm offsets I got on sale and they’ve proven handy but not much more than regular nuts. MICRO NUTS The DMM Alloy Offset Nut Set 7-11 contains one of each size of offset nut in the range from 7 through 11. Feb 7, 2021 · Looking to round out my rack with some small brass nuts. 4mm, DMM 14-21mm, WC 15. Can get the BDs for half the cost of the DMM. The DMM Brass Offsets are consistently some of the best performing nuts in small flares and cracks. Except DMM have taken their line one size further with the size 7 Halfnut. If you have a little bit of experience in outdoor activities you will know about the Sep 8, 2020 · Most regular cam ranges - think the DMM Dragons, Black Diamond Camalots or Wild Country Friends - start with a smallest size range of roughly 14mm - 22mm (BD 13. The tapered design increases security in flaring placements, and DMM uses soft brass to reduce the chance of fracturing rock sending you on a big ride. When i go to squamish i carry a lot more regular nuts and only a few small offsets (the yellow dmm is magic) but at index i barely carry regular nuts. 8-26. Nuts with an offset taper protect cracks where normal nuts double rack of totems, red, yellow, and blue dmm dragonflys, a wild country friend #3 and #4, dmm offset nuts, and wild country superlight rocks. Jan 20, 2010 · Rocks fit an average range of crack types but are not as versatile as DMM Offset Nut. With a complex, offset head geometry these nuts will place securely in flared cracks where regular nuts and cams may not sit well. Was set on the DMM's but I just saw that BD is making something similar now. The wires they are mounted on are set into a recess to reduce wear, while larger sizes have holes that reduce weight. Purchase the DMM Offset Nuts *(Nut Technical Specifications can be found on the product pages)* **Alloy Offset Sets** - The DMM Alloy Offset Nut Set 7-11 contains one of each size of offset nut in the range from 7 through 11. Sometimes and offset is better than a standard and vice versa. Unless you climb somewhere fairly unusual, you are probably better off having a set of regular cams first. Anything larger than the big blue offset should be a 0. The offset superlights appear to be cut from the extruded rock shape with one cut square , the other at an angle to give an offset tapering away from the concave side of the rock shape. I have on my rack: -standard BD stoppers Nov 23, 2021 · I often leave the regular Wallnuts on the ground. Jan 7, 2019 · The Black Diamond Offset Micro isn't durable enough for everyday trad climbing because they aren't as durable due to the soft metal of their heads and their wires being more prone to kinking. 14 Tage Rückgaberecht versandfrei* ab € 100,- Kaufberatung Fachhändler aus Österreich HB Alloy Offsets protect irregular and flared cracks that regular nuts cannot. You get a decent size run and good overlap. I have a set of DMM offsets and I am thinking the brass offset micros would be the most versitile as the offsets can be places well enough where a non-offset can be places but has the added benefit of also being places in offset situations. Their Alloy Offsets are designed to protect irregular and flared cracks that repel regular Wallnuts. While the peenuts aren't as low a profile as the brass offsets, since I presently have them as a tiny offset option, it sounds like having a tiny non offset option is probably best (maybe IMP 2/3/4, since that seems to cover the range from 'theoretically still can be sound Apr 13, 2025 · Do you need offset nuts? Offset climbing nuts make an excellent complement to a rack of nuts. But I personally do carry offset nuts on my climbing rack. Nov 23, 2021 · The offsets seem to be the best bang for the buck when balancing faff factor, ease of use, and cost. Old trad dads lament the dying art of good stopper placement with the advent of micro cams, and they have a good point. Posted by u/Infinite_Toilet - 2 votes and 18 comments May 3, 2015 · I've never used WC offset nuts, but the DMM ones strike me as being more 'proper' offset nuts, with the WC ones being like Rocks with an offset twist to them. I want to get a new set of nuts and have really like the DMM Offset nuts but the BD ones look just the same with the benefit of the color coding matching the standard BD ones. In 1981 the company employed just 4 people and now thirty years later we are an important employer in this area with just over 150 men and women on The groove down the centre of the DMM nuts can be placed around irregularities in the placement which will help hold it in place. I went full offset a while ago, and have never looked back. I am curious if Nathan feels differently though. The document has moved here. I’d start with black diamond c4s they’re great; very durable and likely to be on sale. I have small offset nuts but what do people think about normal small nuts. if the rock type is suited to offsets have a set of theirs also. I also carry my tricams (black to blue) on a third oval. Calling offsets "niche" is a bit silly, and so is calling them "better". Nov 17, 2011 · Founded in 1981 as Moor house Engineering in Bethesda, soon to become DMM and move to more suitable premises in Llanberis in 1986, the company celebrates 30 years of manufacturing this year in 2011. Since they are more specialized nuts, offset nuts do cost a bit more. Moved Permanently. Again, both models work really well. Alloy Offsets protect irregular & flared cracks that regular nuts cannot. Essentially DMM’s answer to Wild Country’s Superlight Rocks. i feel the surface area and horseshoe shape off the dmm really makes them grab, they are the most confidence inspiring nuts. For a smaller everyday nut, we'd recommend the still offset but aluminum DMM Peenut coupled along with the DMM Alloy Offsets. Also have a few micros of offsets & stopper/rock/nuts. 1x DMM Dynema Sling 8mm (60 cm) 1x DMM Dynema Sling 8mm (120 cm) 1x DMM Dynema Sling 8mm (240 cm) Rope Alloy Offsets protect irregular and flared cracks that regular nuts cannot. It really just comes down the the shape of the rock, and there are a lot of different rocks out there. Have basically narrowed things down to either the DMM HB Offsets or the DMM IMPs. Thanks for the more general input, but I am asking specifically about BD OFFSET MICRO STOPPERS (not the regular micros) VS HB/DMM BRASS offsets. Apr 23, 2020 · I love my offset nuts, rarely rack the regular ones. 75-2 singles . Jan 27, 2018 · But where you climb is a big factor too. Anything under this size will be considered a true micro cam, and it's these we're most interested in here. Ideal for protecting irregular and flared cracks that regular nuts cannot, The DMM Offset Nuts boast a robust 12kN strength rating and are colour coded for ease of selection. And those nuts are superlight. Jan 4, 2019 · DMM because BD just got into the offset nuts game to just take a slice of the market but just added a biner to undercut the price. Additionally they will match the DMM offsets which everyone also swears by (BD now makes offset nuts, never tried em tho). I have found them nice to supplement regular cams, especially when aid climbing. I look at them as two different tools for similar jobs. But then overall it's probably not an issue if the DMMs are your first encounter with these offset nuts, however. Some placements suit an offset nut, and some suit a regular nut and some suit both, or neither. You’ll be able to do so much with that. I guess it really depends on the type of climbing you do. Here is the list: Cams. Best Application Jan 26, 2013 · the DMM offsets dont last as long as regular aluminum or even brass non offset nuts IMO, not so much because the metal deforms but because the offset nature means that the wires kink VERY easily should your partner not be highly experienced in cleaning em and even then the wires still kink and theyll eventually break Jul 6, 2020 · Looking for offset nuts. Dmm Offset Nuts. Offset superlight and dmm/hb offsets are handed in both orientations. I find that I’m able to use the wildcountry superlight offset rocks in nearly every constriction that wouldn’t take a cam. Other options Feb 6, 2018 · Also i find many places a medium sized regular nut will go a cam will also go, whereass the spots offset nuts are bomber often wont take a cam (and yes i know someone is gonna say they'd rather have a nut over a cam ect or whatnot, i'm just saying carrying cams and offsets covers me better than cams and regular nuts). Use in conjunction with Wallnuts for comprehensive all season cr Recently I got dmm offset nuts and it seems like the nuts are really prone to getting stuck even without weighting them. The offset stoppers feature two tapers on each of the four sides, the idea being that this shape fits the realities of irregular cracks better than the square stopper designs. Nicole Rodriquez Outdoor Gear November 30th, 2019 - 03:39:34. The Halfnuts were released in 2020, so the verdict is still out on whether these chalk up or beat Wild Country’s Superlight Rocks durability-wise. Use in conjunction with Wallnuts for comprehensive all season crack protection. See full list on outdoorgearlab. Sep 30, 2016 · My granite climbing rack with the DMM Offset Nuts supplemented with a few others. Value DMM Wallnuts are in the middle with respect to price. Bd looks to to have a bit less offset. . But in flared cracks there’s nothing better and an offset nut will slot neatly in when a more regular shape would be too loose. People often climbing on textured rock in traditional areas will certainly enjoy the benefit of these nuts. They chose not to change the numbering on the nuts, and instead just standardized the color scheme to match their lineup. Title says it really. I have never encountered a route where that bit me in the rear, offset nuts seem to fit everywhere a regular nut would, and then some. 5 cam or larger, so why carry a nut that large? Anything smaller than the gold offset can be covered by the 1-4 wallnuts, as a general rule. Jan 12, 2021 · Where an offset nut is placed, a regular cam would not fit thus I only carry offset nuts anymore as they offer a completely different type of placement than what cams can do. 8-23. 3mm). supplement with friends and zero friends. Feb 23, 2012 · Overall, I have found them to be of limited use compared to normal cams in the places that I tend to climb. Just want to know how comparable the BDs are. 1-4 as you start to tick off harder routes and become more invested. For going smaller, should I get peenuts or HB brassies? For sizing I'm assuming the brassies line up pretty nicely with largest being 6 and smallest alloy being 7. BD hasn't really come up with any innovation for years, I bet they just go to the same factory that makes nuts and slap their logo on them. I need to fill in a gap, ideally DMM brass offset sizes 5 and 6. regular nuts if im in an area that takes them well. Aug 9, 2020 · Maybe someday DMM will update the Alloy Offset with 4 tapered curvy shapes and lighter design. 1x DMM Dragon Cam (2) 1x DMM Dragon Cam (3) 1x DMM Dragon Cam (4) Nuts. Small meaning Black diamond 1-4 stoppers or DMM micro wallnuts. The DMM Nuts are high quality, lightweight, Made in Wales, and look pretty damn sweet. I’m climbing in red rock Jun 15, 2012 · Obviously anodising the nut looks prettier but this is hardly the point of climbing gear! This rather personal gripe aside I’d recommend a set of offsets to any serious trad climber looking to compliment their main set of. I don’t have the Halfnuts currently but I am considering them for the 1 placement of every 50 that won’t take an offset. Nuts with an offset taper protect cracks where normal nuts Alloy Offsets protect irregular and flared cracks that regular nuts cannot. Their two distinct orientations include one that is offset and the other that's less tapered and more traditionally Oct 25, 2024 · The Alloy Offset from DMM is our review team's favorite overall nut for all-around trad climbing because of their versatility and how perfect they are where most other pieces of passive protection or cams are adequate at best. Then doubles in . if you can place a hex = elephant bomb proof! but the weight, take only what you expect to place size 3 & 6 if you have a full set of nuts. DMM bought their assets and restarted the offset nut product lines. Anyway, as I mentioned they come in a set of 5 (smaller offset nuts are available in brass much like the original RP’s), each is rated to 12 kN, they range in size from 12 to 23mm (size 7 to 11), colour coded, are not inexpensive (about $16 ea. DMM also produce a superlight single stem version called Halfnuts and a range of Offsets. A couple thoughts on the choice: I have and *love* the DMM alloy offsets. Have DMM HBs 7-11. Personally I barely even place nuts anymore and most of my climbing partners also don’t place nuts. Hier findest Du die DMM OFFSET NUTS als Set mit 5 Größen. All offset models certainly do better in these types of fissures, including the DMM Brass Offset, along with the DMM Alloy Offset and DMM Peenut. Oct 25, 2024 · The Alloy Offset from DMM is our review team's favorite overall nut for all-around trad climbing because of their versatility and how perfect they are where most other pieces of passive protection or cams are adequate at best. I often bring with me the WC Superlight rock, Superlight Offset Rock and DMM Peenut and it gives a full set of regular nuts with many options in offset cracks. One of my trad friends says his BD #1 stopper is his most useful one. May 3, 2015 · I've never used WC offset nuts, but the DMM ones strike me as being more 'proper' offset nuts, with the WC ones being like Rocks with an offset twist to them. tchjpx goog ymk rulh xgzp baaq hqpwlz mkep dik dnmpfq voh uek kwphk tmc pjxg