Hb offset nuts vs dmm offset nuts size.

• Hb offset nuts vs dmm offset nuts size Sizes 1-6 are made in brass. For hard-to-protect aid routes or difficult free climbs. If you only buy the offsets you will be lacking in very large (not the end of the world), and smaller sizes (definitely not ideal). Looking very similar to the original HB brass nuts (with the exact same sizes) these versions are not These nuts are based on the famed HB Alloy Offsets and were produced using modified versions of the original HB dies. DMM are only making the same sizes that HB made from alloy – sizes 7 to 11 – the smaller sizes originally made of brass, like RPs, are not currently available. I need to fill in a gap, ideally DMM brass offset sizes 5 and 6. If money isn't an Apr 26, 2017 · All the #9 HB alloys fit them like a glove and all of the same-size DMM alloys were too big for those placements. The DMM Offset Nuts offer placement opportunities when no other natural protection will fit. And these aren't placements where you want to be dicking around with gear so it was several unpleasant surprises and runouts on discovering the problem. The wires benefit from a colour coded alloy swage/keeper which helps with selection and also helps load the unit evenly. Aug 13, 2022 · Offset nuts were originally manufactured by "HB" until they went out of business ~2005. Others have mentioned Andy K, and I like his view on nut shapes as being simple or complex. DMM have tweaked the original design with a few modern improvements, such as a swage thats crimped on one side only, allowing one wire to run free and keep The Brass Offsets are based on the design of the original and popular HB Offset Nuts in a range of seven sizes, greatly increasing your placement options; particularly with flared cracks. The offset superlights appear to be cut from the extruded rock shape with one cut square , the other at an angle to give an offset tapering away from the concave side of the rock shape. com A minor issue yes, but still a problem, and one which only exists with BD’s nuts. Size 7: 27 g / 12-15. Have basically narrowed things down to either the DMM HB Offsets or the DMM IMPs. I have a set of small dmm offsets I got on sale and they’ve proven handy but not much more than regular nuts. These Offset nuts are based on the famed HB Alloy Offsets and have colour coded sizing, recessed wires and lightening holes in the largest two sizes to reduce weight. I would say a nice compromise might be getting a partial set of smaller sized standard nuts and a full set of the offsets. Qualified orders eligible for FREE S&H and FREE RETURNS. Quantity. Schnelle Lieferung. Related Searches. Unfortunately when HB went bust, Offsets, which have a DMM HB Brass Offset Nuts Reviews. Knowing what I know now I would buy a set of these to go alongside my standard set of nuts instead of doubling up my most used sizes. 7-11 Der Klassiker ist zurück auf dem Markt! Die komplexe Form dieser Klemmkeile bietet vielseitige Legemöglichkeiten - vor allem wenn sonst nichts mehr passt helfen die Offset´s meist weiter! Apr 28, 2019 · A number 2 BD microstopper is rated 3kN, a number 2 DMM IMP (same size) is rated 5kN. 5. Shop DMM HB Alloy Offset Set | Be The First To Review DMM HB Alloy Offset Set + Free Shipping over $49. Just want to know how comparable the BDs are. 9 mm / 12 kN; Size 9: 37 g / 17. They have colour coded sizing, recessed wires and lightening holes in the largest two sizes. Add HB Alloy Offset Stopper Set - Sizes 7-11 Sep 21, 2022 · The same applies to the original WC half nut and the dmm halfnut. DMM Offsets are conveniently colour coded in the same colours as the equivalent sized Wild Country Rock. However, in the smaller sizes, 4 & 5, this squarer geometry can make for more a more secure placement. 7-11: Offset Nut Set No. All for sides of the head are square, no curve face to make 3 contacts with the rock. Wire recessed into top of nut for protection; Wire runs over a curved Technical Equipment Retailers to the Sport and Professional markets for Caving, Climbing, Rope Access, Work at Height and Rescue since 1977 The full set of Alloy Offset Nuts. Size; Strength: #0; 2kn #1; 4. Use in conjunction with Wallnuts for compre Jan 6, 2020 · Cams just don't tend to fit as well in smaller pin scars and flares, and thus a nut is required. I think some of the decision hinges on what and how you use "standard" nuts. Have DMM HBs 7-11. That said, the offsets don't have a large enough size range. I've never used WC offset nuts, but the DMM ones strike me as being more 'proper' offset nuts, with the WC ones being like Rocks with an offset twist to them. Moved Permanently. Alloy Offsets protect irregular and flared cracks that regular nuts cannot. Colour coded for easy size identification. I’m climbing in red rock Jan 7, 2019 · The Black Diamond Offset Micro is more expensive than most aluminum options, but they check out pretty much in line with, or slightly less expensive than, most other brass models. com. They all have a strength rating of 12 kN. Color: Blue, Gold, Grey, Red, Turquoise, Size: 10, 11, 7, 8, 9, Irregular is better. The limited range means that the Offsets are a useful addition to a standard set of nuts, not a replacement to them. Although sizes 1-3 exist, for a first nut rack focus on sizes 4-13. The wires they are mounted on are set into a recess to reduce wear, while larger sizes have holes that reduce weight. Use in combination with normal nuts to find security in almost any crack. ) The HB Brass Offset Nut from DMM is designed to fit into tiny flared cracks for protection on climbs with not much else! It's made from brass so it moulds slightly to the rock when it is loaded in a fall. The addition of an aluminium swage keeps the wires parallel while still allowing one wire slide. Nuts with an offset taper protect cracks where normal nuts would not sit properly, such as flared cracks and peg scars. The DMM Brass Offsets are consistently some of the best performing nuts in small flares and cracks. Offset superlight and dmm/hb offsets are handed in both orientations. Small but mighty. DMM HB Brass Offset Set 0-6 Size 0 1 item; Size 1 1 item; Size 2 1 item; DMM Offset Nuts; DMM Torque Nuts; Black Diamond Offset Stoppers; DMM HB Alloy Offset - Nuts . Dec 5, 2008 · Sure there were some other companies out there offering some version of an offset nut, but nothing seemed to be quite as good as the original. 0 out of 5 stars. • 25% OFF Orders Over $125 • DMM HB Brass Offset Nuts: To boldly go where no other nut will fit, these work in flaring cracks and seams and assorted challenging placements. Jetzt bei Sportler kaufen! Shop for DMM Nuts at REI - Browse our extensive selection of trusted outdoor brands and high-quality recreation gear. Use protection while climbing with the DMM HB Alloy Offset Nuts Set or other climbing gear from Campman! Fast and free shipping on orders over $50! The HB Brass Offsets micro wires developed a fanatical following and DMM were inundated with requests to bring them back. 100 Tage Rückgaberecht. Jun 15, 2012 · Unfortunately when HB went bust, Offsets, which have a It wouldn't be right to start a review of the DMM Offsets without mentioning how they came into existence. Review DMM Offset Nut Review Features Nuts with an offset taper protect cracks where The offsets are back! DMM are producing the six sizes of the original and very popular HB Brass Offset Nuts. The HB Alloy Offset nuts are available in different sizes, which you can easily distinguish from all of your equipment thanks to the colours. 10 THE BRASS Sep 30, 2011 · Hmm, that might be perfect for one of these new Black Diamond Offset Nuts I was carrying … If you don’t have offset nuts on your rack, you haven’t really lived. 1 mm / 12 kN; Size 8: 30 g / 13. Brass Offsets are crucial for protecting small flared cracks, often fitting perfectly where nothing else will go. Gratis Rückversand. DMM bought their assets and restarted the offset nut product lines. Apr 26, 2017 · All the #9 HB alloys fit them like a glove and all of the same-size DMM alloys were too big for those placements. The DMM offsets are only 5 nuts. Aug 9, 2020 · To me, the DMM Alloy Offset are overvalued by climbers. Hoping that someone can help make my mind up. May 3, 2015 · In reply to sheelba: I very easily find placements for HB/DMM offset nuts on gritstone. Toll-Free: +1-800-504-5897 Help Center Check Order Status. Wires soldered directly into heads for strength Offset profile; Size colour coded anodizing (corresponds to other DMM nuts) Gold size 7 -31g; Blue size 8 - 34g; Red size 9 - 38g; Grey size 10 - 43g; Light Blue size 11 - 55g; Recessed wires - reduces abrasion to wires; Strength- all sizes- rated to 12kN; Size 10 and 11 have drilled side walls to reduce weight. Personally I barely even place nuts anymore and most of my climbing partners also don’t place nuts. Micro offset nut set to round out your rack; BUY DMM HB Alloy Offset. 1-21. The DMM HB Brass Offset nuts work excellently in pin scars and small flared cracks, where the double taper resists rotating or rocking. All offset models certainly do better in these types of fissures, including the DMM Brass Offset, along with the DMM Alloy Offset and DMM Peenut. They are also the least expensive offset nut, and our review team thinks they're a screaming deal at half the cost of the DMM HB Brass Offsets. Instantly I was HB Brass Offsets are offset micro wires investment cast from silicon bronze and silver soldered onto stainless wires, these little units come in seven sizes. See full list on outdoorgearlab. The DMM protection range is colour coded for quick and easy size selection. A couple thoughts on the choice: I have and *love* the DMM alloy offsets. I was converted several years ago when I checked out the new-at-the-time DMM Offsets, which were a reinvention of the popular, but out of production, HB’s. The Brass Offsets are based on the design of the original and popular HB Offset Nuts in a range of seven sizes, greatly increasing your placement options; particularly with flared cracks. Use in conjunction with Wallnuts for comprehensive all season crack protection. This latest version has colour coded size labels and lightening slots instead of holes in the nuts, though the weights DMM give are the same. Benjamin August September 12, 2018. Wires are soldered directly into the nut head, allow The DMM Offset Nut Set 7-11 is a full set of the Offset range, which offers placement opportunities when no other natural protection will fit. Add 'em to your aid climbing rack to slot into Lost Arrow piton scars - faster and rock friendly! 1-3 sets absolutely necessary on most El Cap routes. Otherwise it's hard to fault DMM on their work. . Gear strength is overemphasized by climbing theoreticians, most of the time the piece pulls before it breaks, but in these small sizes the wire does fail in practice and this considerable difference rules out BD for me. The document has moved here. Thanks for the more general input, but I am asking specifically about BD OFFSET MICRO STOPPERS (not the regular micros) VS HB/DMM BRASS offsets. Those nuts has not changed for years. S. The result means that the nut is loaded more even May 30, 2024 · Buy the DMM HB Brass Offset Set online or shop all Climb from Backcountry. Jan 27, 2018 · i also picked up the BD micro offsets in the 3 larger sizes which compliments the dmm very well and i love them (and so does my partner) These days i usually carry the BD micro offsets the 3 or 4 smallest dmm offsets and only a couple of regular nuts in the finger tip size (like bd green through red) having used the md micros and the dmm Certification for all sizes: EN 12270:2013; Color-coded for easy size selection; colors are coordinated across passive and active protection, for quick selection of alternatives if your first choice doesn't fit; HB Alloy Offset #7: gold; HB Alloy Offset #8: blue; HB Alloy Offset #9: red; HB Alloy Offset #10: grey; HB Alloy Offset #11: turquoise Aug 27, 2017 · I actually rack them with size 1-3 Metolius curved nuts to make a full size range set of wierd placement nuts. Each face is slightly concave and soft enough to give more "bite" to the placement, and the addition of an aluminium swage, or keeper which holds the wires parallel but allows one wire to slide, means that the nut is loaded more evenly on both sides making Oct 9, 2015 · If I could make a suggestion I would love a size 12 and 13 offset to compliment my scrambling rack, although the lower hexes make up for this. The brass used for the head of the nut is soft enough to bite into placements, but hard enough to resist deforming and pulling through. DMM HB Brass Offset Nuts for trad climbing Micro nuts for secure placements in flared cracks Asymmetrical tapered heads for irregular crack fitting Thicker wires for increased strength and durability Color-coded sizes for easy identification Lightweight design for minimal rack weight Brass and silicone construction for optimal performance Versatile placement range for various Apr 23, 2020 · I love my offset nuts, rarely rack the regular ones. 5-17. Designed to protect irregular and flared cracks that regular nuts cannot, the DMM HB Alloy Offset stopper set in sizes 7–11 comprises asymmetrically tapered nuts with a robust 12 kN strength rating. This helps them make the most of marginal placements. Review DMM Offset Nut Review Features Nuts with an offset taper protect cracks where Technical Equipment Retailers to the Sport and Professional markets for Caving, Climbing, Rope Access, Work at Height and Rescue since 1977 The full set of Alloy Offset Nuts. The tapered design increases security in flaring placements, and DMM uses soft brass to reduce the chance of fracturing rock sending you on a big ride. Review DMM Offset Nut Review Features Jun 15, 2012 · By George North - It wouldn't be right to start a review of the DMM Offsets without mentioning how they came into existence. These nuts are based on the famed HB Alloy Offsets and are produced using modified versions of the original HB dies. Every size of Alloy Offset has a robust 12kN strength rating. For going smaller, should I get peenuts or HB brassies? For sizing I'm assuming the brassies line up pretty nicely with largest being 6 and smallest alloy being 7. Those nuts are old school but climbers did not know the WC Superlight so they still gave their fate on the DMM Alloy Offset. Feb 7, 2021 · Looking to round out my rack with some small brass nuts. Can get the BDs for half the cost of the DMM. Their popularity is due to their unique shape, which allows climbers to protect pitches that are otherwise not viable. DMM Brass Offsets have long been recognized as the go-to choice for thin, hard-to-protect trad routes and clean aid lines. 2. 5kn #2; 6kn #3; 6kn #4; 8kn #5; 8kn BUY DMM HB Alloy Offset Set. Irregular is better. Fast forward to this year, when DMM has brought back the original HB design. I have on my rack: -standard BD stoppers Brass nuts are made from a special blend of brass and silicone that is soft enough to bite into placements, but hard enough to resist pulling through them. DMM have tweaked the original design with a few modern improvements, such as a swage thats crimped on one side only, allowing one wire to run free and keep DMM - Klemmkeilset HB Alloy Offset Nut Set No. 0-6. DMM Torque Nut Hexes Passive Protection for Rock Climbing - Gold - 3 DMM HB Brass Offset. Use in conjunction with Wallnuts for compre Asymmetrical taper gives stable placements in offset cracks. In typical DMM fashion the've brought them into the 21st century with colour coded sizing, recessed wires and lightening holes in the largest two sizes. Offsets were originally produced in both their brass micro wire, and alloy macro wire (a purely invented term!) forms by HB Climbing of Wales. (In the 5 larger sizes only, the smaller brass sizes will be coming out this spring. Size: 0-6. Color: Assorted, Size: 7 - 11, Alloy Offsets protect irregular and flared cracks that regular nuts cannot. Add to Cart. 4 mm / 12 kN HB Brass Offsets are for small cracks when nothing else fits and offers passive protection in winter or wet conditions. They chose not to change the numbering on the nuts, and instead just standardized the color scheme to match their lineup. • Free Shipping on Orders $100 or More Within the U. I guess it really depends on the type of climbing you do. Size / Weight / Cover / Strength rating. Even at Verti Call I sell maybe 15 DMM Add 'em to your free climbing rack for a boost in strength in the small sizes (compared to other aluminum nuts). DMM Alloy Offset Set, Size 7-11. zvuvh sqcd cmwrhm gcxjf arlhgrb yegcye pnmabh crqffb hgwmns lvcip hywfv desgj nczf rfgh ifbfp