Dyneema climbing sling lengths reddit It is definitely a little bulky because there end up being a lot of strands going between your tie in points and the carabiner but it's not too bad. A single can work over most 4x6 rigs but is often tight to do with 1 beaner. Jul 2, 2018 · I have been using the clove hitch with a Dyneema sling (Clove Hitch Trad Anchor) to build my anchors, but after watching the DMM Video(DMM Sling test) of them breaking slings, with the knotted Dyneema breaking at way less than the knotted Nylon sling, I am considering changing to the Nylon 240cm sling. I use 6mm nylon cord. Realized when I got home that I was taught to not tie knots in a dyneema sling. It's thinner than, say, RBTR's Venom webbing. Since it's the highest performer and nowhere near the most expensive, we think it presents fantastic value. For the same diameter rope, dyneema is strong than steel. For nylon slings I honestly don't think it makes much difference. If I were just getting started, I'd consider getting one (or other small integer) of every make/model; your partners who lack inquiring minds will think you're the Frankenstein monster and be unable to dress appropriately to compliment your sling colors. It is lighter smaller and easier to tie small knots in. Reply A basic trad rack might include 12 single-length slings, 4 to 6 double-length slings and 2 triples (or 2 cordelettes) for the anchors. Or, if constructing it for use as a foot loop, may as well just use a 120cm sling, if you have one, and skip the extra biner. I currently have all dyneema slings and am planning on buying a few nylon slings for clipping the first piece, building anchors, etc. The other problem with dyneema is that it won't reliably hold a water knot like nylon will. Very strong material. Dyneema slings are also easier to break when there isn't anything that can stretch in the system (eg an anchor of just dyneema slings). With the same length of cord (~20 feet) i can equalize 4 pieces which is hard to do with 7mm cord due to the larger cord taking up a lot of length in the master point knot. Personally, I have a 7mm, 6mm, and 240mm sling in my closet since I like variety and they're inexpensive as far as trad climbing gear goes. in practice this increases overall breaking strength by about 1. Dyneema is lighter and thinner. Some people may still disagree with me, and will never use dyneema slings. Edit: There were some good discussions on the topic of sewing your own dyneema slings a few years ago on mountain project, but I don't remember where. But 5mm in most cases is too thin, go for a double length dyneema sling or try to find some 6 or 7mm. With the ‘biners pulled in opposite directions, the result is a tripled sling about the length of a conventional quickdraw. I tend to use slings or cord when leading in blocks and use the rope when swinging leads. -2 HMS style lockers for clove hitches. Then I take my double lengths, fold in half, and then overhand them all together. I thought about just using some of my retired Dyneema climbing slings, but those are very thick. See full list on outdoorgearlab. On the down this is used to extend my rappel. here are options all solids are keylock: $130 solid/wire mixed 11mm x 17cm dyneema 10pc set May 18, 2021 · Clip both carabiners to your sling; Pass one carabiner through the other; Clip the passed-through ‘biner onto both strands of the sling; And that’s it. Moved Permanently. Virtually all modern climbing ropes are made of nylon. All in all the draw weighs in at 60 grams. My favorite part is when cleaning up an anchor, I can change the length of the PAS quickly. On the up, the locker doubles as the locker for my ATC in guide mode, the prusik can double as an extra sling if I run out. I, personally, LOVE using a cordalette (or triple length sling). It is true that the dynamic element will absorb a large part of the force, but considering how a knotted dyneema fail at low force, I wonder if a cord or nylon sling would be a better option for belay station, and keep dyneema for extending pros Favorite sling is the Mammut Contact 8mm as its stitching is snag free. Dyneema has a lower melting point than nylon, so the heat caused by the friction of the prusik and the rope rubbing together is more likely to melt/weaken/break a dyneema third hand than a nylon third hand. Here in Italy in Mountain courses they teach to only use kevlar cords for this purpose due to its higher melting point. You can use dyneema slings in a redundant anchor but you would need multiples. -quad length sling. When you look at these harnesses, the webbing I'm talking about has approximately the same appearance as grosgrain along the mesh part, and it's folded over where it turns to attachment points. Also, if you are going to start climbing trad in the future, I'd invest in some triple-length dyneema slings and biners to make your own alpine draws. As dyneema is a new technology that is more involved to create, it is also a tad more expensive to buy. Nylon is the original sling material. The single-length sling is, technically, non-redundant, but so is the belay loop, rappel device and biner, and rope, and the 22kn sling is wild overkill for the forces involved in the rappel. I mean, in comparison to a regular dyneema sling that a lot of people use as a tether while rappelling, the magic sling is a safer option as it will not break as easy in a situation where the sling is shock loaded. Dyneema is way better for alpine draws. Usually around 16-20mm wide, nylon climbing slings are much bulkier (and more durable) than lightweight 6-14mm Dyneema slings. So, I'm not sure what to do. These uses tend to not be very rough on slings. If the bolts are connected with a chain (thus, redundant), I clip to the chain. The reduced strength still exceeds the climbing ropes intended purpose. Time alone is not a good indicator of softgoods lifespan Skinny slings do not last as long as fatter slings, simply because less material. Yes, two seperate slings is a far stronger system, but requires both anchor bolts to be at the same height to properly distribute the load on two equal length slings, which is not always the case. May 26, 2020 · Nylon for anchor slings, Dyneema (dynex) for extending pro. I can get 10pcs for about $130. Also make sure you understand the various sling tension / sling angle configurations and use what is best for your given situation. without a dynamic element in the system between you and the anchor, like a climbing rope) will generate far more than 2kN of force, and will likely result in slings breaking, injury, bolts popping, etc. And I'll have a prussik backup onto the rope below the belay/rappel device, so its kinda redundant anyway. the single strand now has to take half the shared load. I personally dont like using sport draws for trad climbing so I carry 10 regular shoulder length slings and 2 double length slings on longer stuff, all racked with 2 carabiners on my harness. 5x the single line rated load. I'm surprised that the FB knot uses a dyneema sling. Or two singles. Maybe if I was going super light alpine I'd just use a dyneema sling but I'm not so it works for me. I love ultratape but for ice climbing and remote alpine rock, I have started using more and more dyneema slings. My favorite sling for multipitch trad anchors is the rope I am climbing on. 0s are all Mammut Contacts made with dyneema so they're pretty good and, according to store pages, they can hold a 22 kn fall. I thought dyneema was generally avoided for friction applications because of it's low melting point? A hollow block would obviously work well here. Double length dyneema sling girth hitched to the head of the ice axe and girth hitched to your harness. Using it for alpine draws, slings, dogbones, etc is all good because it's not catching a static load, the rope is dynamic and therefore the sling doesn't have to take the same kind of force as it would catching a static load directly. Between option 2 and 3 I would opt for the nylon sling since sometimes it is useful to be able to plunge your axe and create a temporary self belay, in which case my preference would be for nylon over dyneema. Nylon stays strong longer and doesn't slip as much when used in a girth or clove hitch. The 8. Sep 25, 2020 · So dyneema slings tend to be thinner and lighter than conventional nylon slings. Extra long extension or anchors. Keep slack out of your static anchors. The document has moved here. doubling the loop doubles the strength of the system. Stretch doesn't have anything to do with fall factor calculations. 8 shoulder lengths (2 with light weight lockers), 2-4 dbl. Please be also advised, that the knot in the sling will reduce the holding power of the sling. So your calculations shoud go like this : 2*(rating oft the sling)*0. Just wondering how many Alpine Draws, Quick Draws, and Single-Biner slings you guys carry for normal single pitch cragging? I normally have 5 single length alpines, 1 double length alpine, and one single length alpine with lockers on my harness - no empty or single biner slings or QDs. However, both of the Nylon slings we tested — the Black Diamond Nylon Sewn Runner as well as the Sterling Nylon Sewn Runner were also among our favorites for their handling. Feb 11, 2016 · Getting Into The Details . If that is not an option for whatever reason then I use whatever slings I have available on my harness. 6 depending in the knot //the 2 comes from the fact that you have 2 strings when knoting cord together This is absolutely true, but does that mean no one should ever tie in to a rope. You are right, though, that dyneema is significantly more abrasion resistant than nylon. 17mm slings also seemed like a good length. com Sep 1, 2023 · TheMammut Contact Sling is the lone Dyneema fiber sling that we feel is obviously friendlier than the others. The weight savings alone make dyneema the go to option for many trad climbers and alpinists who froth over having the lightest rack possible. I am a fan of Sterling power cord after only one climb. As for nylon over dyneema: Dyeema is great in the application it's meant for. the accessory cord is not climbing specific so it's rated for single line loads and lists the breaking -Prussik cord with a locker. Nylon has the knot and some stretch to help your anchor survive. As far as brands go, I absolutely recommend the mammut dyneema slings. A nylon sling would be more robust than a dyneema sling, but they are bigger and more unwieldy for such a purpose. This makes them the best choice for situations such as extending a belay device , replacing anchor webbing or attaching yourself to an anchor before abseiling . Different quantities/lengths of cord or sling. I made my quad from 7mm and it works really well. Slings would be nice for a bomber tree, bolt anchors, or other close together set ups and you will undoubtedly have them already The rope should be fine unless you are climbing the full length of the rope and don't have an extra length to make the anchor. Of course not. Wear and actual use has the greatest detrimental effect on sling lifespan. Apr 11, 2019 · This sling retails for about $9 for a 60cm length, which is on the low end of the spectrum for a Dyneema sling, although is close to double the price of a Nylon sling. Dyneema has a scary tendency to break under a shock load and nylon has much less tendency to do so. (the sliding x is not redundant in the sling). A fall factor 5 is a fall factor 5 whether you fall on a dynamic rope or a dyneema sling. I've found webbing for a few cents per foot in various thicknesses, and I've read that water knots are pretty damn strong in webbing. Dynex is a brand name for “high-molecular-weight polyethylene” fiber, which is essentially the same exact material that makes up Dyneema or any of the non-Nylon choices in this review. A benefit of slings is that they're cheaper than the PAS and they aren't single-purpose, like a PAS is. Generally you never need a 240 sling if you're able to be creative with anchor building, but a lot of people like them because it can help simplify things. Factors like the type of climbing, the length and type of route, the rock and character of the climbing area and your personal climbing style all play a role in how you set up your rack. I really like the dyneema (NOT nylon) 5mm tech cord from both mammut and maxim. This can't be true if you think that dyneema is more abrasion resistant than nylon. I do always carry 1 or 2 double length Nylon slings for use as personal anchors, slinging trees, and for kliemhiest hitches. Dyneema slings can be made to work if you have nothing else, but the material is so slippery it's hard to get them to bite. We compared this sling extensively to the BlueWater Titan Runner, which is another sling that uses both Dyneema and Nylon in its construction. I would prefer 16mm or more for ease of grabbing and durability, but these mixed wire/solid quickdraws only come in 11mm dyneema. Generally recommended to replace soft goods (nylon/dyneema cord, slings, etc. They are also light for alpine stuff. Nylon cord is the most common. However, I'll say that my Black Diamond nylon 18. e. Nylon. i use dyneema slings for anchors as they are way lighter and less bulky than cord. Slings are static so a factor two is going to be disastrous. Plus nylon, which is the sheath, is not as slippery as dyneema so probably helps it hold knot strength better. A knot in a sling weakens it anywhere from 40 to 60%. For situations that will put a lot of abuse on gear, like top rope anchors or multi-pitch anchors, I like cordelette or tied nylon runners. It's certainly going to suck a whole hell of a lot more on the dyneema sling, but it's still a fall factor 5. For most of my alpine draws I use the standard 60cm slings (single length slings), and I also often carry one or two 120 cm slings for when I'm trying to reduce rope drag from a placement that creates an angle in the rope. for a casual multipitch day i carry: -1 quad length dyneema sling - pre-tied as a quad (adjust as needed for your anchor) -1 triple length dyneema sling. That said, I keep a couple of nylon slings on me (usually one 60cm and one 120cm) as they are nicer for building anchors, extending your rappel, etc. 3 to 0. -double length sling. As for strength between dyneema/nylon, tests have shown that even when wet, neither sling loses enough strength to be a concern, but of the two, dyneema was almost completely unaffected. The Open Loop Sling, like many other Dyneema slings, is made primarily with Dyneema in the middle as the load bearing part of the sling, but with a larger than average amount of Nylon on the edges to provide elasticity and color. Or use the climbing That looks like a dyneema/spectra sling for climbing. a basic knot will reduce the strength of the rope by ~50% as a general guideline. for cams, draws, and anything else) after 7-10 years maximum, regardless of wear and tear (and of course earlier if damaged). It can be racked in just the same way. On the up, it can be used to extend. I've used plenty of water knot slings myself. They are lighter, rack better and are easier to extend. Just don't go climbing over it full length, and falling directly on it (although it could probably take that). And I believe that the reduced strength of a knotted dyneema sling still exceeds it's intended purpose. keeps them from snagging the gear in the bag or making huge rat's nests. . As far as the specifications for building a quad or any anchor for that matter its better to go thicker than thinner. It actually took quite awhile to become adopted into climbing practice and it wasn’t until the late 60’s and early 70’s that it became universally accepted (thanks to Outdoor Gear Labs for the history). Its jus so easy to go "clip-clip-clip-PullDown-MasterpointKnot-Done" and I always carry a few extra double length slings in case of something like having to build a four or five piece anchor. As others have said. These (or the 180 cm slings you mentioned) could be used as draw extenders in your case. i stopped using cord about a year ago and i will never go back. I always carry prussik cord with me when climbing outdoors, because I like the option to go hands free on rappel, and have anchor building material. Equalization is a myth - especially dynamic The Black Diamond Dynex Sewn Runner is one of the highest scoring, and most economical, slings in this comparative review. 0s tend to be reached for first, perhaps out of comfort. So why not buy… 240mm dyneema/nylon sling is also great, especially if you're not worried about complicated belay stations. 5 can vary from 0. Jan 29, 2022 · Like so much other gear, slings are a price, weight, durability tradeoff; the skinny stuff doesn't last as long as the nylon. It eventually slips out more than you think it would. Does that only apply to when it can be shock loaded? My extended rappel setup is as follows: Halve the sling through the belay loop on the harness 2) Tie a knot, half, 8, whatever in the middle If you’re considering slings for hanging a ring to a hard point, I usually carry at least one single length and one double. Although nylon climbing slings are UV stabilized, prolonged exposure to UV has a detrimental effect on both Nylon and Dyneema. shoulder lengths (1 locker apiece), 2 sport draws, 25' of cordelette, at least one of the dbl shoulder slings from knotted tube webbing. A 7-8mil nylon cord would be a better choice for making anchors in general and when you get more experience you can figure out what's worth saving weight on. You can still get ultratape at Moosejaw. Most people I know use a sling or two to clip into the anchor setup. 5 = breaking force oft the system //the 0. While in the pack to-and-from the crag, I take all the shoulder length slings and stack them together and tie a big overhand knot in the middle with them. For dyneema I feel like most people prefer the mammut 8mm contact sling, but really any dyneema sling that has the bar tack sewn in will be perfect for using for years. I would much prefer to have this anchor made of dyneema slings than rope. Usually bring 8-10 alpine shoulder length draws, 3 double length slings with carabiners over the shoulder ( for extension, anchor building, slinging shit, and rap tether), and often like 4 regular lightweight sport draws. It looks they are advertising it as stronger strength in knots versus plain dyneema slings as it's basically two slings of different materials in one. Dyneema hardly absorbs water, so it's great for winter climbing extendable runners, draws, everything. If you want a full set of light trad/alpine sling- and quickdraws for cheap I warmly recommend looking for sales of rack packs of light biners (CAMP NANO, Edelrid 19G etc), 60cm dyneema slings and 17cm Petzl Ange S/L or BD OZ Two Point Ice Screw Anchors - 10mm Dyneema Sling setup as a quad Glacier Travel Prussics - 6mm Nylon (Anything thicker won't bite well on the rope generally) 24" Picket - 10mm Dyneema Sling 120cm in length girth hitched Posted by u/uncertain_gecko - 3 votes and 11 comments Not sure what kind of impulse equations you're looking at, but a factor 2 fall on your dyneema sling connected directly to an anchor (i. Rope is dynamic but a factor two on a short length is still going to be uncomfortable. They were sold out on nylon slings, so i bought a dyneema sling. In the climbing world, that rating is the break strength, not the safe working load limit! And any knots significantly reduce the strength of dyneema slings. It is nice to have a fatter sling for 2-screw anchors (usually a nylon-dyneema blend so it's not too fat) because it's easier to untie when you are moving on from a multipitch belay. They tend to be more versatile and durable than dyneema slings, and they are cheap enough to cut up or leave behind. bpb gyixk jibyh joehn yymtuw ljeeeusw ntjm pyqzj kauw emza isfpe jtvmh utl nik iwms