Alpine savvy big wall . In big wall climbing, the rope is typically fixed by the leader and then ascended by the second, who cleans the gear. Here are two approaches, each offering a secure, speedy, and simple method to swap leads, with a minimum of gear and futzing around. Dec 31, 2018 · Rule #1 of big wall climbing: everything has a clip in point. Try to avoid scavenging carabiners from your lead rack to clip stuff to your bivy. Aideer big wall gear, made in Sweden, carries on the tradition of a one-man shop making high-quality climbing gear, with impeccable attention to design and sewing, with fair prices and fast shipping. When you reach an anchor, reach down and grab both strands of one docking cord. Apr 21, 2020 · This tip is from the excellent book, “Hooking Up: The Ultimate Big Wall and Aid Climbing Manual”, by Pete Zabrok and Fabio Elli. This translates to ultra-caution in all parts of your hauling system and interaction with bags, haul lines, docking cords, and pulleys. ). Water knots are notorious for loosening under repeated cycling loads, so tighten down the knot with a pair of pliers, and check it often to be sure it's not loosening up. Sep 1, 2021 · Although you might think this looks a little sketchy, the cheapskate locker has been used by big wall climbers for decades, and is “super-good-enough” as an improvised lowering point. You’re adding an extra knot and carabiner to your system, which are two more things that can potentially get snagged when you're pulling your rope. . Premium Members get even more. It may seem like one extra bit of a necessary gear, but it can keep your big wall belays WAY more manageable and less tangled. Aug 1, 2018 · To make an organized camp on a big wall, you’ll need probably at least a dozen spare carabiners to clip things securely onto your ledge. On a long pitch, a leader may not want to take the entire rack of gear with them. Usually this is easier than hauling with your arms. Provided it’s unquestionably strong, here’s an elegant way to use these single point anchors. True life story: my partner and I had topped out on The Prow, a classic big wall route in Yosemite. You are unlikely to be doing a 3:1 or greater haul, 2:1 is typically all that’s needed even for honker haul bags. On Sep 9, 2018 · Even if you’re climbing an aid route cleanly, meaning without a hammer, having a “beak” style piton can come in very handy. For the Eventually some projects surfaced where I could really get into my ultimate passion - websites, apps, some server automation. a. Oct 18, 2024 · The big wall tips are excellent. Dec 12, 2024 · Ropes often get loaded over edges on big walls, because the belay is usually on top of a ledge and not beneath it. 5mm. Feb 8, 2024 · Large weight difference between climbers (heavier leader and a lighter belayer). Introduction to MA systems. k. ) Dec 13, 2018 · Here’s what big wall expert Mark Hudon has to say about this system, from his website Hudonpanos. Needing to descend from a climb quickly, for some emergency reason (injury, lightning storm, darkness, etc. Sep 9, 2018 · Lowering out can be a bit nerve racking for the second, especially if you haven’t done it very often. Learn all about the Tibloc, starting with how to properly pronounce it! Feb 3, 2019 · If you’re doing a 1:1 haul of fairly heavy bags on a big wall climb, you probably want a slightly larger diameter pulley wheel to get a small increase in efficiency. \bThere are are lots of crafty ways to use it that may be new to you, and also some common mistakes you want to avoid. Jan 1, 2024 · An oval carabiner was the first shape that was widely available to modern recreational climbers. But instead of 30 feet, you’re doing it for maybe 3,000 feet! Bulk, weight, and cost of equipment are factors, but not nearly as important as in alpine climbing. Rebelays have long been used by cavers, who know how to take good care of fixed ropes. You absolutely never want to drop it! Here's a way to minimize the chance of that ever happening. “ambition exceeding ability”), there can be lots of valid reasons to turn aro Jan 23, 2019 · Note - This post discusses techniques and methods used in vertical rope work. Previous. Don’t freeze everything solid or you’ll be thirsty on day 1. Pass the rope around the tree or rock horn, and tie an overhand knot (BHK) in both rope strands. big wall - different needs in MA systems John Godino. Inspiring mountain photography. Traverse Equipment repair kit. Bonus: helmet fits inside most days. (Some other manufacturers have their own version, such as the Maxim Platinum, Edelwiess Element, and the PMI Extreme Pro. Once you have a 2:1 and a 3:1 mechanical advantage system dialed, It's easy to combine them and get a 6:1. A lower out cord is a #CraftyRopeTrick used in aid climbing. Sep 14, 2022 · Big wall rigging: the “far end haul” . Sep 9, 2018 · Big wall anchors can turn into an incredible cluster if you don't stay on top of things and keep it tidy. Feb 16, 2019 · 5 gallon plastic bucket, paint store or big box hardware store (or maybe free from a doughnut shop or big supermarket bakery) Gamma lid. A 3:1 “Z” drag, step by step. As the second ascends the fixed rope and cleans the gear, they have a large carabiner hanging from a short sling (usually about 30 cm) from their belay loop. Higher potential for a leader fall. Provided you have the tape, this is a low cost, secure, and easy-for-the-next-person-to-clean method. Tie an 8 knot loop in the middle and clip it to the main haul bag carabiner. 60-70 meters. com/instagram 2) Google: “alpinesavvy pre-thread pulley”. ) (Some testing where it gets impacted with a sudden dynamic load of 7+ kN would be interesting. Mar 17, 2023 · A big squeeze of lime/lemon juice, a few sugar cubes, and some salt is the Frugal Climber’s sports drink. But in this case I will, because it can't really be improved upon. Aug 4, 2020 · The Petzl Tibloc, an ultralight emergency ascender, is a very handy piece of gear. See 400+ more tips like this at alpinesavvy. This is one of the common ways to haul when big wall climbing. A beak piton (a shortening of the broader term bird beak) is a very thin piton with a V-shaped downward hook at the end. Alpine Threadworks rescue sled & bivy Feb 16, 2019 · Descending with your haul bags is the sort of opposite of hauling them, but many of the same principles apply. Jun 2, 2024 · Note - This post discusses techniques and methods used in vertical rope work. So, the Dec 17, 2018 · On big wall climbs taking two or three days with a team of two, you can probably use a traditional 1:1 hauling system. Sep 20, 2018 · When you zoom way in close to the ground, you get a more realistic view of what you are really going to see, a big help in making route finding decisions. Next. Potential for a long leader fall, such as slab routes or alpine ice routes. Many of them you'll find on the Alpinsavvy big wall section, such as: the 2:1 haul. prune juice, but there is a serious lack of flat spots to put it. (Monkey Face bolt Dec 25, 2018 · If the loop is too big, you lose reach on every placement. Dec 1, 2023 · Skot Richards is a one person, California-based designer and producer of big wall climbing gear. ) Be it challenging weather, poor conditions, route finding errors, or general loss of mojo (a. If you have access to a freezer, freeze most of your water bottles if it’s going to be hot. Potential for a higher impact/high fall factor. An excellent way to do this is to keep the lead and haul ropes contained and feeding smoothly by using rope bags. Apr 22, 2019 · Carrying a blade of some sort can be a smart thing to have on alpine climbs. Nov 24, 2023 · It’s big enough for a full guide kit or bigger ski mountaineering objectives but can compress down for more average days. Rarely does Alpine Savvy post material directly from another website. One popular ratchet pulley for big wall climbers is called the Kong Block Roll. One way to protect your rope: the rebelay. It can make cleaning sharply traversing pitches, roofs or short pendulums a LOT easier. However, carabiner design has changed a lot over the years, and now we have LOTS of different styles. 500+ pages of great instruction and photos, highly recommended for big wall climbers. com: “I use 15 feet of 8 mil cord, doubled. This secures you, and gives a conveni Feb 3, 2019 · next - Alpine vs. Jun 17, 2023 · The big one was already mentioned, but it's worth saying again: if the knot pulls through the hardware, the entire system fails and you die, or your rope gets stuck. If the loop is too small, you won't be able to girth hitch it. Feb 3, 2019 · What are some real world climbing situations where I need to know this stuff? Alpine climbing - In a crevasse rescue, you may need a 2:1, 3:1 or even 6:1. May 17, 2024 · The big one was already mentioned, but it's worth mentioning again: if the knot pulls through the hardware, the entire system fails and you die, or your rope gets stuck. The last pitch concluded in a series of fourth class ledges. Over 500 FREE tips and navigation resources for climbing and mountaineering. Apr 14, 2020 · Having a simple and consistent method for belay changeovers, clearly understood by both partners, can really speed up multi pitch climbing. This technique can also be used for big wall climbing, to rig a hauling a point to minimize friction. For the complete article: 1) Go here: alpinesavvy. The short sling is somewhat optional, but it declusters the front of your harness a bit and makes it slightly easier to clip in the Dec 1, 2023 · big wall gear sling “Collector of Dropped Objects” (CODI), a sort of large hanging basket designed to be strung below people who work at heights so they don't drop stuff A few of his schweeeeeet aid ladders, ready for shipping. Download GPS tracks for more than 70 routes in the Pacific Northwest. Feb 3, 2019 · Big wall climbing can also involve hauling big loads. It’s more relevant to mountain rescue teams and big wall climbers than to alpine climbers. having a Traxion on your haul bag. This is a WAY better option than fighting a tight paint bucket lid with beat up wall hands! Feb 10, 2020 · One of the more vexing questions for big wall climbers is, “Where da heck do I put my beverage?!The last thing you want at your bivy is spilling that precious can of . Here’s a technique might speed up and simplify the process - use a designated lower out cord rather than the climbing rope. There are a lot of critical items on the big wall climb, but probably the most important (and expensive!) one is your gear rack. Nov 28, 2022 · Beal has a wide variety of ropes available with Unicore technology, from skinny alpine, to sport climbing, to burly big wall 10. In addition to the expert tips is Brent’s schweeeeet gear checklist. However, for climbs much longer than this, or a team of three, or when you or your teammate are significantly lighter than the bags, or if the hauling is on terrain less then vertical, or maybe when you simply want to suffer a lot less, you may well want to add some mechanical Big wall ascending overview . Curated instructional videos. Or, your route may require some extra large cams higher up, but not on the lower pitches. Attention to detail is crucial on a big wall, and a solid checklist like this will help you Jan 18, 2023 · Clip a Tibloc / ascender or something similar to the haul strand, clip in a double length sling (or aid ladder) for a foot loop, step in it, and haul with your bodyweight by stepping down in the sling. This is a clever contraption that lets you install a screw-on lid to a 3 or 5 gallon standard bucket. A similar rappel check acronym I’ve used is BARK (Buckle, Anchor, Rap device, Knot) but I was never quite satisfied with that one, because it left out securing the ends of the rope, and putting in an auto block. Mar 5, 2024 · Lead rope soloing is normally the realm of socially inept big wall climbers, who can't find a partner for their week+ vertical camping trip on El Capitan, or big wall speed climbers, who do what’s called “short fixing” to efficiently keep lead climbing while their partner is cleaning the last pitch. Get two strands of stout cord, each one about arm’s length. Here are a few words on hauling, from the excellent big wall climbing book, “Higher Education”, by Andy Kirkpatrick (Buy it here): “Hauling is potentially one of the most dangerous aspects of big wall climbing. Aug 25, 2022 · A few words on hauling, from big wall expert Andy Kirkpatrick: “Hauling is potentially one of the most dangerous aspects of big wall climbing. Here are two step-by-step examples how to rig these with a minimum of equipment. com For the complete article: 1) See link in Bio, 2) Go here: Climb better, smarter, and safer with Alpinesavvy. No, you’re probably not going to pull a Joe Simpson (see below) and have your partner slice the rope and drop you to free themselves; the normal cases for knife use aren’t nearly as exciting. Having ice cold water on a multi-day hot weather big wall is priceless. If you want to gear up for a big wall adventure, Aideer is a fine place to start. So I decided to spin out on my own - Savvy Alpine was born. His Alfifi is a near-cult piece of required gear for big wall climbers. Aug 24, 2024 · Beginner big wall climbers, you know what I'm talking about; you clipped the haul bag in the wrong spot and it needs to get moved, whoops! (I’m an expert on this particular mistake; I probably did it five times on my first wall . using a tagline, among others. Or, perhaps various rock rescue scenarios where you might need to haul your second past a difficult move or two with a 3:1, and less commonly, setting up an “alpine block and tackle”, which can be a 4:1 or a 6:1 theoretical MA, which we Sep 27, 2019 · Expedition big wall climbing with 600 kg / 1,300 pounds of haul bags, all hanging from the same anchor point? Not gonna happen. That was far from our normal work though, and we were dealing mostly with big government agencies, whereas I really wanted to work with small businesses. It can be a little tricky to find just the right spot, that's where the external mouse with the scroll wheel can come in handy. Jul 5, 2023 · Note - This post discusses techniques and methods used in vertical rope work. Big wall: the “lower out cord” . trauma kit (cpr & extreme bleeding) separate from first aid kit and more accessible. general first aid kit. static rope Mar 18, 2020 · A few words on hauling, from the excellent big wall climbing book, “Higher Education”, by Andy Kirkpatrick (Buy it here): “Hauling is potentially one of the most dangerous aspects of big wall climbing. Always practice vertical rope techniques under the supervision of a qualified instructor, and ideally in a progression: from flat ground, to staircase, to vertical close to the ground before you ever try them in a real climbing situation. There are three main components to a standard ascending system for big walls: Two handled ascenders on the rope. If you do them wrong, you could die. Big wall anchors - have “links” Comment with the phrase “HAVELINKS” and I'll DM you a link to my article about this. Mar 9, 2022 · Aideer big wall gear, made in Sweden, carries on the tradition of a one-man shop making high-quality climbing gear, with impeccable attention to design and sewing, with fair prices and fast shipping. (I don’t have one, but word is they work great. Avoid this common mistake at a big wall anchor: clipping several ropes or slings Jul 16, 2021 · Alpine terrain can offer single point anchors like a rock horn or tree. Dec 23, 2021 · A classic beginner mistake at a big wall anchor: clipping several ropes or slings into a master Alpine Savvy - Big wall anchors - have “links” . Big wall climbing, such as leading a pitch or two from the ground or your bivy, leaving the rope there overnight, and then ascending it the next morning to get a head start. Sep 20, 2019 · This works slightly differently for big wall climbing. Two tethers of some flavor, each attached an ascender with a locking carabiner Aug 1, 2018 · There are lots of different flavors of rope to choose from, but here’s one that should suit just about everybody: 10 mm. Oct 29, 2021 · Big wall: Pre-thread the haul pulley . lgozzjxbhtjiufmjrxtploqhcjfhqhcrhtsoetfrkscckcawfudyntgfhiboxmdwew